Review: Angelini at Kowloon Shangri-La
As a Hong Kong Island resident, the Kowloon Shangri-La wasn’t really on my radar. But then I got to know some people who grew up in Hong Kong and have fond memories of family dinners there as a child. So when I finally had a chance to visit the hotel and try Angelini (its Italian restaurant), I wasn’t super surprised to see various families dining together. It might not be a restaurant you hear about often but it’s a firm favourite for some.
To get to the restaurant I walked up a carpeted staircase and then down a long narrow hallway which somehow made it feel like I was going somewhere old school and special. The decor at Angelini is indeed old school with patterned carpets and lots of red accents. It could be a good choice if you’re looking for an intimate hideaway.
We came to try Chef Andrea Burzio’s Degustation Dinner Menu ($888 per person). Chef Andrea, who has been with Angelini for nearly two years, grew up in the northern Italian city of Turin and aims to introduce the flavours of his hometown to guests.
So what’s on the latest menu?
We started with vitello tonnato. A classic done well.
The asparago and culatello course used white asparagus, black truffle hollandaise and Culatello ham. A richer dish that still felt light and fresh.
The ravioli al granchio was filled with crab, white asparagus and basil pesto. For my guest and I, the flavours were a little muted and the texture too soft.
Another richer dish that still felt light and fresh was the baked salmon with pineapple beurre blanc and chives. An unusual yet delicious combination.
For dessert, we were served a slice of traditional lemon custard cake.
Our meal ended with selezione di te e caffe, translated as small pastries with coffee or tea.
While we enjoyed many aspects of our meal and we love the Shangri-La brand, there were a few areas that didn’t quite meet our expectations. In terms of value, the price of $888 seemed quite steep given the simplicity of many of the dishes and ingredients. Service was also uneven for both the dishes and the wine pairing ($488), not up to the standards we’re used to seeing at Shangri-La restaurants.
Angelini remains a charming Italian restaurant, a special hideaway in the heart of TST. We felt the price was a bit steep for the experience but perhaps we visited on an off night. Those looking for a quiet spot to wine and dine loved ones may enjoy Angelini.
64 Mody Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733 8750