Restaurant review: Feather and Bone in Happy Valley, Hong Kong
High quality, well priced comfort food
Gone are the days when you need to go home and cook the food bought at your favourite speciality grocer. At Feather & Bone in Happy Valley, now you can choose your meat and cheese from the deli counter and enjoy it in the dining room or patio area at the back of the shop.
The restaurant, helmed by Executive Chef Eric Taluy, serves French-inspired dishes and is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. We went on a weekday evening to sample their goodies, choosing some items from the main menu and specials list and our mains directly from the butcher’s counter. Note that the specials and sauces are dependent on what is delivered each week.
We started with a classic: cream of mushroom soup ($78 per bowl). It was creamy and fragrant, spiced with ground black pepper.
When our cheese selection came, it took our breath away. If you're a fan of strong flavours, we highly recommend the baked Vacherin Mont d’Or ($300), which was the special for the night. An entire wheel was melted and chopped fresh garlic was mixed throughout the cheese, before being splashed with white wine, baked and garnished with rosemary. It was served with the perfect accompaniments – boiled potatoes, grilled bread, sweet, vinegary Toulouse sausage and pickles – to balance out the richness of the cheese. Yes, it was absolutely sinful but well worth the calories.
Then it was time for the grill plate ($380). The Australian grass-fed rib-eye was flavourful, fatty and tender – absolutely no complaints. The steak sliced like butter. The lamb was also tender. While the plate was served with four sauces (red wine, black pepper, Béarnaise and blue cheese), the meats were so flavourful on their own that the sauces seemed overpowering. They didn’t go to waste, though, as we happily ate them with the hand-cut fries and mashed potato.
Unfortunately, the desserts were underwhelming. While we could see the chilli in the spicy chocolate fondant cake ($78), we certainly couldn’t taste it. That said, the cake was moist and well made. The crème brûlée ($78) was served café gourmand style, accompanied by an espresso and a selection of petits fours. Unfortunately, each bite-sized treat was quite dry and overbaked.
Overall, Feather & Bone’s new Happy Valley location serves up high-quality, hearty French food in an unpretentious environment. That said, it can be easy to rack up a high bill, with our dinner for two reaching over $1,000. Definitely order the Mont d’Or, but you may want to consider skipping dessert.
Shop A and C, G/F, Winner Building, 11 Wong Nai Chung Road, Happy Valley, 2836 3789, www.featherandbone.com.hk (for online orders)
This post first appeared on Foodie.